Yester Castle and the Goblin Ha’, Gifford

Here is an extra-special one that I always intended to write up from the very conception of this website, but I first visited this national treasure several years ago and I wanted to make sure that I had all of my details correct before telling you how to find it. As it turns out, it’s a good job that I did! I feel like Yester Castle, or at least the Goblin Ha’ is pretty legendary around these East Lothian parts, but despite this it actually remains pretty difficult to find any clear instructions on how to access it. I have set out to visit the castle three times, and only actually made it there twice- and I am definitely not alone in that either. Back in the olden days, I followed a general online consensus that the best place to park was Castle Park Golf Course just outside of Gifford, and from there the walk to the castle took maybe 20 minutes or so, passing through a stable yard and skirting the golf course. Attempting to repeat this recently however, child free and with a friend, we encountered prominent signage at the golf club advising no access to Yester Castle, found that previous footpaths are now overgrown and fenced off, and there is no public access to the golf course through the stable yard (yes we attempted it anyway, no unfortunately it can’t be done)... Still a worthwhile little excursion though, as we encountered a friendly, mud-bathing pig, and also stumbled upon a much appreciated (but very random) quirky trail of inspirational signage quoting positive affirmations... So with a confusing mix of disappointment and positivity, we returned to the van to re-group and consider other options for accessing the castle.

So now that I have successfully provided you an excellent explanation of how NOT to visit Yester Castle, I am hoping the remainder of this post proves more beneficial in fulfilling your historical-exploration desires. I am actually quite proud of myself for this, because the following walk was literally ‘raw-dog’ planned from the satellite view on google maps, together with the fact that a week or so before I had taken my son on a (failed!) fishing trip to a lovely, peaceful little spot called Danskine Loch, during which I had mentally noted an appealing-looking footpath on the opposite side of the road. A footpath which, as-it-happens, leads directly into Yester Estate, and is not a million miles away from Yester Castle on google maps!

So without further ado, here’s what you actually need to know: Set your sat nav for Danskine Loch and park on the opposite side of the road near to the big stone archway that marks the entrance to the estate, obviously being considerate and careful not to block access to the gates. Enter the estate via the pedestrian gate and follow the wide, stony path, passing through an area of recent deforestation which eventually opens into a thriving ancient mixed woodland. The path follows a babbling stream, sound-tracking the pleasant surroundings with the calming melody of gently flowing water. Masses of wild garlic complete this sensory bombardment, filling the air with its distinctive, instantly recognisable and appealing aroma. There are multiple opportunities for micro-adventures at the waters edge; we discovered a discarded tractor tyre, so reclaimed by nature that it may as well have been a geographical feature. The shallow waters, and abundance of natural stepping stones, combined with the secluded surroundings, would make this a truly magical spot to bring little ones on a sunny day, to paddle and skim stones whilst fully indulged in a spot of forest-bathing.

Looking towards the stone bridge having detoured left from the main path to play in the stream

Shortly after entering the canopy of trees and sticking to the main path, you will cross an old stone bridge. Almost immediately after this a path forks off to the left- take this spur and follow it as it heads uphill. We met a lovely man here, walking his dogs, who was more than happy to point us in the direction of the castle. Our visit was during an unusually warm sunny May, and he told us that we were lucky, for the whole path is normally a muddy bog- so unless our luck travels with you, I would bear in mind that wellies or boots are likely a must here. Follow the path uphill and ignore the first right hand spur which just leads down to a small ford across the stream. Look out for a thick-trunked, ancient beech tree to your left as you approach the crown of the hill, and just beyond that look for a path on your right that leads down to the bottom of the valley and back up the other side. As you start to ascend the opposite bank the castle will appear before you, not far in the distance. I am guessing that the walk from car to castle would take a normal person maybe 15-20 minutes or so, obviously playful, nature-obsessed, photo-geek explorers like myself will take significantly longer!

Right hand path heading down into the valley before you climb up the other side to the castle

The first view of Yester Castle as you ascend…

Wikipedia will tell you everything you need to know about the history of Yester Castle, and it is definitely worthy of a wee read before you go. As you peer downward through the ancient gated window to the subterranean realm of the goblin Ha’, be sure to contemplate the legend of the necromancing wizard, who made a pact with the devil and summoned an army of hobgoblins to build this massive chamber as a space for him to practice his dark magical arts... Now, I am not one to pay much heed to the supernatural but there is absolutely no doubting that this incredible room is both architecturally stunning, and creepy as feck! The ground-level window will be easy enough for you to find and access, but make sure to also walk through the tiny doorway in the HUGE wall to the right, following the narrow path as it winds round the side of the hill (be careful here- there is quite a steep drop on the side of the path- you might want to give it a miss if you have very little ones in tow). This path leads to the dark, dank, hobgoblin-sized tunnel entrance into the Goblin Ha’. You mustn’t leave without getting inside for a proper look about. There is a really creepy dark corridor within, leading away from the main hall- my challenge to you is to follow it to the very end- if you are in any way claustrophobic this is not the adventure for you, and I am not ashamed at all to say that I absolutely bottled it! The hall itself is really cool though, both figuratively and literally; the epic vaulted stone ceiling is super impressive, the alcoves in the walls are still exactly as they were back when the castle bustled with life and fizzled with magic. I really don’t think there is anywhere else quite like it, and I also know that my description does it no justice at all.

Outside ground-level windows looking into the Goblin Ha’

The rest of the castle comprises of a few ruined towers and a fabulous stone arch, very characteristic of East Lothian’s eclectic castle collection, and slowly being reclaimed by nature. It’s difficult to visualise the castle as it once was, as a whole entity, but it is easy to enjoy in now in its current state. Crunchy beech nuts form a carpet underfoot as you explore, and surrounding trees are entangled with ivy vines so thick, they have almost become trees wrapped in trees, enormous protruding roots inviting you climb and balance, seeking spots to photograph red crumbling walls physically too big to frame. When you have had your fill, either keep on exploring the 550 acres of land covered by Yester Estate, or simply re-trace your steps back the way you came.

Our return journey provided one more mystical surprise that somehow we had missed on the way in. Back on the main path heading out of the woods, listen out for the unmistakable sound of rushing water and follow it down a steep, muddy little ‘fairy path’ on your left to discover the lushest little mini waterfall, complete with it’s own very cold-dip-able plunge pool. The layered rock formations would be sure to excite any geologist, and the simple innate joy of natural falling water is just as sure to delight non-geologists too. Waterfalls are somehow just special, to me anyway, and if you like this one I highly recommend you venture to ‘Peggys Pool’ in Carlops (see my ‘Beyond East Lothian’ section for the full deets) as it gives off very similar secluded, peaceful vibes.

Whilst I am excited for returning to this walk with my kiddies for wholesome family adventuring, my friend is planning on returning to the Goblin Ha’ armed with a ouija board... I think I will be giving that visit a miss!!!

North Berwick Nature Park, North Berwick